It produces a water-rich film on the skin giving the stratum corneum (the uppermost layer of the skin) great hydration, making it nice and smooth and reducing trans-epidermal-water loss (the process of water evaporating out of your skin). The strong point of collagen is being a large molecule with tremendous water binding capacity, i.e. Putting collagen on your skin for anti-aging purposes is like throwing tent poles onto a ramshackle tent and expecting the tent to magically become nice and firm again. Spotting collagen on the ingredient list, you might think that, aha, this must be there to supplement the collagen content of our own skin, but you have to know that collagen is a huge-huge molecule that cannot absorb to the middle layer of the skin where collagen is and even if it could, it cannot just magically go the right places to become part of the skin's own collagen network. Soluble Collagen refers to the big, natural collagen molecules mostly extracted from fish or bovine skin. If you are into vitamin C, you can take a look at more promising derivatives here. It is there in lots of products in tiny amounts (honestly, we do not really understand why), however, we do not know about any vitamin C serum featuring AP in high amounts. Overall, Ascorbyl Palmitate is our least favorite vitamin C derivative. Regarding the skin-brightening properties of pure vitamin C, this is another magic property AP does not have, or at least there is no data, not even in-vitro, about it. The only good thing we can write about Ascorbyl Palmitate is that there is an in-vitro (made in the lab, not on real people) study showing that it might be able to boost collagen production. It was only an in-vitro study meaning that it was done on cell cultures and not on real people, but still, this also does not support the use of AP too much. Third, another study that wanted to examine the antioxidant properties of AP was surprised to find that even though AP does have nice antioxidant properties following UVB radiation (the same one that comes from the sun) it also promotes lipid peroxidation and cytotoxicity. Maybelline New York Instant Age Rewind Eraser Treatment Makeup with SPF 18, Anti Aging Concealer Infused with Goji Berry and Collagen, Creamy Ivory, 1 Count 0.68 Fl Oz (Pack of 1) 8,446 200+ bought in past week 990 List: 13.99 FREE delivery Jun 15 - 16 Or fastest delivery Jun 13 - 15 Only 2 left in stock - order soon. We are highly skeptical what effect a tiny amount of AP has in a formula. Even if it can be converted, the palmitate part of the molecule is more than the half of it, so the efficacy will not be good and we have never seen a serum that contains a decent (and proudly disclosed) amount of AP. This does not mean that ascorbyl palmitate cannot penetrate the skin (because it can, it's oil soluble and the skin likes to absorb oil soluble things) but this means that it's questionable if ascorbyl palmitate can be converted into pure Vit C in the skin. Second, a study that examined the skin absorption of vitamin C found that ascorbyl palmitate did not increase the skin levels of AA. A great study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology compared a bunch of vitamin C derivatives and this derivative was the only one where the study said in terms of stability that it's "similar to AA". Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/PVP Crosspolymerįirstly, it's stability is only similar to that of pure ascorbic acid (AA), which means it is not really stable. 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